Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica
Obećao sam Franu tirolsku prečnicu. A on je rekao da je spreman penjati dugi smjer. Jedan i jedan jednako Prijatelju moj i spust poštenom tirolskom prečnicom!
Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica
The last day was Tove's chance to tackle a multi-pitch route. And she took it. We climbed Tinin route and had a great time. All the while the guys also made the best out of their last day way down in the gorge. Awesome time hanging out with you guys!
Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica
Björn was the one siezing the day while the others had some rest. Walking on crutches on level ground, then tying into the rope and springing up the rocks sure got him more than a couple of confused looks from other climbers! :-)
Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica
After some more single-pitch routes in the gorge, Erik and I went to climb a mult-pitch. We chose Danaja and we hit the spot. It was not too demanding but still interesting enough and the weather was perfect.
Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica
After a full day of climbing single-pitch routes, the second day was a bit mixed. Great effort by Björn (who was using his one healthy foot during this whole trip) for launching a good attempt at Hugga wugga! No harm in giving it a (careful) try.
Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica
Our guests from Sweden were blessed with a week of excellent weather just after the storms. The 5 of us had a great day climbing single-pich routes in the gorge. It takes time to comprehend the scale of the rock walls surrounding you...
Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica
A drugi dan još jedna školska klasika - Ča je od Draga je od Draga. Krasan vikend i dobro iskorišteno vrijeme!
Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica
I jedno ponavljanje gradiva ljetne alpinističke škole. Najprije Prijatelju moj, a onda taman dovoljno izazovan i nikad dosadan Centralni kamin.
Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica
Malo je valjalo poraditi na ljetnim tehnikama, pogotovo uz takav nezasitan apetit za Alpama. Zdravo je imati apetit, no počnimo prvo s predjelom. Centralni kamin bio je dobar izbor za Idu i Gorana, a slijedili su Lidijin i točanje nogu u potoku uz hladno pivo.
Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica
Mislim da netko više voli egzibicije u bilo kojem obliku nego li samo penjanje.
Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica
Još malo ljenčarenja na kratkim sportskim smjerovima za Frana. Kaže spreman je za duge smjerove, a ne znam, vidjet ćemo...
Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica
A short visit to Paklenica by our UK friends Kirsten and Milan! We climbed Centralni kamin and had some fun on single-pitch routes too.
Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica
Fran se malo zaželio stijene. A što i ne bi, nek grebe...
Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica
Wednesday was our last day of climbing so Lutz had his last wish ticked – D․ Brahma in Anića kuk. We then climbed Šaleški on the northern side of Anića kuk Pillar. After the last 420 vertical meters of rock Lutz had to finish his trip to Paklenica. No more short term plans were to be made so we just enjoyed some more beer and raised our hopes for good winter. And then maybe some ice climbing because – why not?
Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica
On Tuesday Lutz ticked his first big wish and climbed Mosoraški in Anića kuk. We still had plenty of time left so we also climbed Kamasutra on the northern side of Anića kuk. A very nice route indeed! After another 500 vertical meters climbed it was time for another beer and the last day's plan to emerge.
Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica
Monday was the first real day of climbing. Everything went smoothly as we expected. We linked Ča je od Draga je od Draga, Centralni kamin, Danaja and Celjski stup. The last one served as calibration for the grades in Anića kuk. After more than 500 vertical meters of rock in a day we were still fresh and ready for beer. And for more planning of course.
Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica
Arriving late Sunday afternoon Lutz barely got a chance to climb some single-pitch routes in the gorge. But then we decided we would still do a multi-pitch test route to see where we're at and better plan for the days ahead. So we climbed Lidijin with Nosorog exit. We were pleased. Planning our next climbs over a cold beer could begin.
Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica
After approaching Centralni kamin Kirsten's stomach suddenly changed its mind. So we backtracked down to the gorge were she had some rest and recovery to do while Milan and I climbed single-pitch routes in the shade. A good deal of climbing, trying, falling and all together great effort!
Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica
Josipa Debeljaka was a perfect choice for a somewhat longer route for practicing techniques and not to overwelm us with difficulties. It was Milan's second route. Kirsten climbed it three years ago but still found it 'interesting' enough. :)
Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica
Sjeverni greben proved easy enough for Milan's first route to have us just continue up the last pitches of Sjeverno rebro. Definitely an appropriate introduction for Milan as well as some familiar relaxed climbing for Kirsten.
Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica
Centralni kamin is another great route with many variants to suit everyone. This time the chimney pitch was wet so we took a lower left branch through Sjeverno rebro. We climbed the last three pitches differently but similarly with great satisfaction.
Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica
There seems to be love happening between Kirsten and Mosoraški. Because she called him back! :) Not like it's a familiar route after almost seven years since she last climbed it. But still every bit as fun as it always was.
Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica
On our last day we took Mark and Gidon, our other British guests with us. They were climbing single-pitch routes in Klanci since they arrived. They were in serious training so they climbed a lot of single-pitch routes by then. All psyched up like teenagers even if actually being slightly older than that. :) They wanted to do a multi-pitch too so we chose two routes in close proximity – Frau Blüher and Flex & Rex. We climbed almost like a single party of four, chatting, taking photos, sharing support... On the descent I took us to climb an excellent F5c route in Hram, hidden in shade and away from crowds, of course. We finished the day with some single-pitch sport routes in Klanci. What a great ending to what otherwise felt like we are just getting warmed up! But there is so much more! Oh well, maybe some other time...
Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica
Plans for Mosoraški or Brahm started to emerge. To be on the safe side I first took us to another great classic somewhat representative of climbing in Anića kuk yet not nearly as engaging. Barba Antin gave us some beautiful chimney climbing, a brilliant easy traverse, a difficult corner pitch and much more. All that as a reminder of what "easy" grades in Anića kuk feel like. We agreed it was hard enough to justify a rest day or two and to stay away from Anića kuk this time.
Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica
Kirsten has already climbed a whole lot of obvious first-choice routes in Paklenica. Picking the next one has proven to be a challenge. :) We agreed to switch leads this time so we wanted somewhat lower grades and no runouts. Josipa Debeljaka it is! The second route was also a typical choice, Cile, although it was already in the sun – not quite so pleasant at this time of year.
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16. 10. 2022. 
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