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Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica

  23. 10. 2019.     comments: 0

Wednesday was our last day of climbing so Lutz had his last wish ticked – D․ Brahma in Anića kuk. We then climbed Šaleški on the northern side of Anića kuk Pillar. After the last 420 vertical meters of rock Lutz had to finish his trip to Paklenica. No more short term plans were to be made so we just enjoyed some more beer and raised our hopes for good winter. And then maybe some ice climbing because – why not?

Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica

  22. 10. 2019.     comments: 0

On Tuesday Lutz ticked his first big wish and climbed Mosoraški in Anića kuk. We still had plenty of time left so we also climbed Kamasutra on the northern side of Anića kuk. A very nice route indeed! After another 500 vertical meters climbed it was time for another beer and the last day's plan to emerge.

Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica

  21. 10. 2019.     comments: 0

Monday was the first real day of climbing. Everything went smoothly as we expected. We linked Ča je od Draga je od Draga, Centralni kamin, Danaja and Celjski stup. The last one served as calibration for the grades in Anića kuk. After more than 500 vertical meters of rock in a day we were still fresh and ready for beer. And for more planning of course.

Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica

  20. 10. 2019.     comments: 0

Arriving late Sunday afternoon Lutz barely got a chance to climb some single-pitch routes in the gorge. But then we decided we would still do a multi-pitch test route to see where we're at and better plan for the days ahead. So we climbed Lidijin with Nosorog exit. We were pleased. Planning our next climbs over a cold beer could begin.

Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica

  11. 09. 2019.     comments: 0

After approaching Centralni kamin Kirsten's stomach suddenly changed its mind. So we backtracked down to the gorge were she had some rest and recovery to do while Milan and I climbed single-pitch routes in the shade. A good deal of climbing, trying, falling and all together great effort!

Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica

  10. 09. 2019.     comments: 0

Josipa Debeljaka was a perfect choice for a somewhat longer route for practicing techniques and not to overwelm us with difficulties. It was Milan's second route. Kirsten climbed it three years ago but still found it 'interesting' enough. :)

Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica

  25. 06. 2018.     comments: 0

Sjeverni greben proved easy enough for Milan's first route to have us just continue up the last pitches of Sjeverno rebro. Definitely an appropriate introduction for Milan as well as some familiar relaxed climbing for Kirsten.

Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica

  23. 06. 2018.     comments: 0

Centralni kamin is another great route with many variants to suit everyone. This time the chimney pitch was wet so we took a lower left branch through Sjeverno rebro. We climbed the last three pitches differently but similarly with great satisfaction.

Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica

  21. 06. 2018.     comments: 0

There seems to be love happening between Kirsten and Mosoraški. Because she called him back! :) Not like it's a familiar route after almost seven years since she last climbed it. But still every bit as fun as it always was.

Karavanke, Storžič

  18. 02. 2017.     comments: 0

Uvjeti za penjanje u Storžiču ne baš sigurni. Ali zato odlični za vježbe lavinske potrage i spašavanja unesrećenih iz lavina. U izvedbi Zimske alpinističke škole AOŽ i Škole planinskog skijanja.

Umjetni slapovi Mlačca, Mojstrana

  15. 01. 2017.     comments: 0

Zimska alpinistička škola AO Željezničar na umjetnim slapovima u Mojstrani. Trebalo je početi od početka, ne od sredine, a za to je Mojstrana zakon.

Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica

  20. 09. 2016.     comments: 0

On our last day we took Mark and Gidon, our other British guests with us. They were climbing single-pitch routes in Klanci since they arrived. They were in serious training so they climbed a lot of single-pitch routes by then. All psyched up like teenagers even if actually being slightly older than that. :) They wanted to do a multi-pitch too so we chose two routes in close proximity – Frau Blüher and Flex & Rex. We climbed almost like a single party of four, chatting, taking photos, sharing support... On the descent I took us to climb an excellent F5c route in Hram, hidden in shade and away from crowds, of course. We finished the day with some single-pitch sport routes in Klanci. What a great ending to what otherwise felt like we are just getting warmed up! But there is so much more! Oh well, maybe some other time...

Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica

  16. 09. 2016.     comments: 0

Plans for Mosoraški or Brahm started to emerge. To be on the safe side I first took us to another great classic somewhat representative of climbing in Anića kuk yet not nearly as engaging. Barba Antin gave us some beautiful chimney climbing, a brilliant easy traverse, a difficult corner pitch and much more. All that as a reminder of what "easy" grades in Anića kuk feel like. We agreed it was hard enough to justify a rest day or two and to stay away from Anića kuk this time.

Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica

  15. 09. 2016.     comments: 0

Kirsten has already climbed a whole lot of obvious first-choice routes in Paklenica. Picking the next one has proven to be a challenge. :) We agreed to switch leads this time so we wanted somewhat lower grades and no runouts. Josipa Debeljaka it is! The second route was also a typical choice, Cile, although it was already in the sun – not quite so pleasant at this time of year.

Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica

  11. 09. 2016.     comments: 0

I drugi dan iskrao sam se na pola dana i pridružio Durangu. U nedjelju smo Daniel i ja popeli Ča je od Draga je od Draga sa već standardnom školskom izlaznom varijantom. Dok su tečajci nakon dugog smjera u pravilu ostajali frikat u klancima, ja sam se po kratkom postupku uputio doma. Ipak sam na godišnjem, znači moram puno odmarati. Not! :)

Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica

  10. 09. 2016.     comments: 0

Škola SPK Durango "posjetila me" u Paklenici dok sam na godišnjem. :) Ukrao sam malo vremena i u subotu odradio jedan smjer s tečajcem Vedranom. Jedan ali vrijedan, respektabilan Celjski stup. Moji mišići stopala već su zaboravili što znači penjati u raskoraku, izgorili su! :)

Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica

  04. 06. 2016.     comments: 0

Ispit za vodiče C standarda u Paklenici. C standard u HPS-u je vođenje na sportsko penjanje, ove godine samo dva kandidata. Nenad i ja propitali smo vodičko-penjačke tehnike pri vođenju na penjanje kratkih sportskih smjerova, ali i glumili klijente u dugim sportskim smjerovima. Zaključak: neke LJAŠ u HPS-u izmišljaju "svoje" penjačke tehnike što nekim kandidatima priušti ni manje ni više nego pad na ispitu i "sretno na popravnom". Pa hvala im na takvom "školovanju".

Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica

  17. 04. 2016.     comments: 0

Prijatelji moji iz Mađarske, epizoda četvrta. Odabir smjera pao je na Josipa Debeljaka. Nije težak, ali je dugačak pa predstavlja pravi poligon za vježbanje tehnika. Na ulazu smo prestigli priličnu gužvu, što je bio ključ sigurnog nastavka dana. Dalje samo uživanje do vrha, uz pokoju novu tehniku, no uglavnom utvrđivanje onih standardnih. Sad je vrijeme za trenkanje i podizanje ocjena pa da i teži smjerovi dođu na red.

Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica

  16. 04. 2016.     comments: 0

Prijatelji moji iz Mađarske, epizoda treća. Došlo je vrijeme za pokazati našim gostima neki Peklenički klasik. A koji je valjda najpenjaniji dugi smjer u cijeloj Paklenici? Mogao bi to biti Nosorog. Malo smo ponovili tehnike penjanja dugih sportskih smjerova i pritom uživali ko prasci.

Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica

  08. 11. 2015.     comments: 0

Drugi dan seminara za vodiče C standarda. Najprije smo odradili zadane vježbe pri tlu, a onda opet u stijenu. Opet Valentina i ja, ovaj put popeli smo Lidijin i još u dobrom društvu. Kandidatima sretno na ispitu!

Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica

  07. 11. 2015.     comments: 0

Prvi dan seminara za vodiče C standarda. Počeli smo s vođenjem na penjanje kratkih sportskih smjerova. Nakon toga prebacili smo se u duge smjerove. Valentina i ja popeli smo Danaju s naglaskom na vodičke tehnike i tehnike samosapašavanja u dugim penjačkim smjerovima.

Großes Wiesbachhorn, Hohe Tauern

  01. 11. 2015.     comments: 0

Drugi dan buđenje u 04:00 i spremanje za 1500 m visinske razlike do vrha Großes Wiesbachhorna. Snijega je bilo više nego zadnji put i na dosta mjesta bilo ga je naporno prtiti. Ali nismo odustajali dok god je išlo. A to "dok god je išlo" prevelo se u jedva još (od)penjivu grapu s izlazom na oko 3000 mnv. Naime, lagani greben koji vodi dalje prema Kaindlgratu i njime na vrh bio je napuhan dubokim snijegom koji niti bismo stigli isprtiti, niti bi to bilo sigurno i pametno pokušati. Odpenjali smo grapu i sve ostalo, ukrcali se u auto 2000 mnv niže, ovaj put bez popetog vrha, no sretni i zadovoljni.

Großes Wiesbachhorn, Hohe Tauern

  31. 10. 2015.     comments: 0

Mirka, Krešo, Vuković i ja, opet na turu svih tura. Prvi dan odradili smo pristup do brane Mooserboden na 2040 m i tamo prenoćili. Ovaj put smo računali na zimsku sobu, no svjedeno ponijeli opremu za bivakirati kod brane, za svaki slučaj. Soba je bila otvorena i slobodna, koji gušt...

Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica

  18. 10. 2015.     comments: 0

Drugi dan sa školom u Paklenici. I drugi dan s Krešom! Nisam mislio da ću imati prilike penjati Srednje rebro baš na školi, no s obzirom na iskustvo od prethodnog dana, nisam se dvoumio. Odradili smo smjer baš lijepo školski, ponovilo se!

Južni Velebit, Velika Paklenica

  17. 10. 2015.     comments: 0

Ponekad te i na školi usreći vrlo kvalitetan tečajac. Moglo bi se reći da je na školi tek "reda radi" ako u jednom danu, preciznije u 3 i pol sati penjanja popnete s tečajcem Ča je od Draga je od Draga (izl. var.), Centralni kamin (izl. var. kroz Sj. rebro) i Danaju, sve "leđere". Prekrasan opušteni dan u Paklenici s Krešom.

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